Believe it or not, there are some people who don't enjoy a fine chain restaurant experience. For these hoity-toity snobs, it would be easy to write off the Chili's location #172 as just another in a long line of soulless Tex-Mex eateries. However, the true aficionado will immediately see the difference between Chili's location #172 and Chili's locations #1- #171 and #173 – #983.

Tucked away in the corner of a New Jersey strip mall, Chili's #172 is managed by Scott Daniels. Daniels is perhaps most well known as the upstart visionary who revived the seafood chain restaurant genre in New Jersey with his work at the Long John Silver's on Route 22. When that became a Hooters, Scott went on to assistant-manage a Fuddrucker's. It was well known that he wanted to manage again, and he was immediately named as a top contender when a job opened up at Chili's #172. After two weeks of intense speculation from the chain restaurant community, Daniels was named manager.

All chain restaurants live and die by their appetizers. Like Pizzarea Uno, Chili's Boneless Buffalo Wings are actually chicken breasts tossed around in a wing sauce. Though delicious, the wings at #172 were a little less spicy than you would expect to find at a Chili's. After popping four or five, I had to check my waiter's ID badge to make sure I wasn't at a Ruby Tuesday's.

Don't miss the bottomless chips and salsa. They are saltier than the language of a sailor who's been at sea for months. That said, I found the salsa a little watery. I often had to use my left hand as a salsa safety net. When you're lucky enough to find a chip with a natural scoop shape, the combination is simply bliss. It's a great accompaniment to the El Presidenté Margarita.

The drinks were spectacular. The coke was well carbonated, and served in a Pizza-Hut-esque plastic glass which complimented the taste nicely. My server only let the soda get below ice level once.

A picture of a 1960's minor league baseball team, a sled, a tin soft drink advertisement, a traffic light, an old timey bike horn, a ukulele, roller skates, another sled, and trumpets all contribute to Chili's #172's "anything goes" vibe. This attitude extends to the wait staff who are friendly, efficient, and kneel down to take orders. My razzle-dazzle server impressed everyone in his section by not writing down orders, but still getting almost everything right.

Chili's' Tripple Dipper Dinner is their newest and most exciting dish. Essentially, you choose three appetizers to make up your entrée. I chose three more orders of Boneless Buffalo Wings. They were essentially the same as the first dish, though perhaps a little colder.

From the ample variety of crayons provided while I waited for my food, to their insistence on calling me a cab because I was visibly intoxicated, Chili's #172's attention to detail really sets it apart.

Final Grade – 8.5 mozzarella sticks (out of 12).